History of Juliana Jewelry (D&E)

The Birth of DeLizza & Elster

The story begins in the 1940s when William DeLizza and Harold Elster founded DeLizza & Elster (D&E) in New York City. Initially, the company produced a variety of small items like buttons and buckles, but it wasn’t long before they shifted their focus to costume jewelry. D&E quickly made a name for itself by manufacturing high-quality pieces for some of the biggest names in the industry, including Weiss, Hattie Carnegie, and Kenneth Jay Lane. Their jewelry was known for its exceptional craftsmanship, often rivaling the sparkle and intricacy of fine jewelry—without the hefty price tag.

However, D&E didn’t just produce for other brands. In the 1960s, they decided to create their own line of jewelry, which would later become known as Juliana. This line was a game-changer, capturing the bold, glamorous spirit of the era.

The Juliana Line: A Bold New Direction

In 1967, D&E introduced the Juliana line, named after Frank DeLizza’s mother. This collection was sold directly from a 5th Avenue showroom and featured some of the most eye-catching designs of the time. Juliana jewelry was all about making a statement—think oversized brooches, chunky bracelets, and earrings that sparkled like diamonds under the lights. The pieces were adorned with colorful rhinestones, art glass, and unique cabochons, often in daring combinations that reflected the free-spirited vibe of the 1960s.

What made Juliana jewelry stand out was not just its design but also its construction. D&E used specific techniques like five-link bracelet construction, heavy rivets, and “figure-eight puddling” (a term coined by collectors to describe the distinctive soldering style). These details became hallmarks of the brand, helping collectors identify Juliana pieces even today.

Interestingly, Juliana jewelry was never signed or stamped with a maker’s mark. Instead, it was sold with paper hang tags that read “Juliana Original.” Unfortunately, these tags were often discarded by the original owners, leaving the jewelry unmarked and creating a bit of a mystery for future collectors.

The Collector’s Nickname: “Juliana”

By the early 2000s, vintage jewelry enthusiasts began piecing together the story of D&E’s unmarked jewelry. Through research, discussions, and even contact with Frank DeLizza himself, collectors learned that the pieces with paper tags reading “Juliana” were part of a specific line produced in 1967 and 1968. However, D&E had been making similar bold, colorful jewelry before and after this period, all of which shared the same construction techniques and design elements.

To make things easier, collectors started using “Juliana” as a catch-all term for D&E’s distinctive rhinestone jewelry, even if it wasn’t part of the official Juliana line. This nickname stuck, and today, “Juliana” is synonymous with the bold, glamorous pieces made by D&E during the 1960s.

The End of an Era

Despite its popularity, the Juliana showroom on 5th Avenue closed after just two years. However, D&E continued to produce jewelry in the same style for many years afterward. The company remained a major player in the costume jewelry world until it closed its doors in 1990, with Frank DeLizza, William’s son, at the helm.

Even after the company’s closure, the allure of Juliana jewelry lived on. Collectors and vintage jewelry lovers continued to seek out these pieces, drawn to their unique designs and the challenge of identifying them without a signature mark.

The Legacy of D&E Juliana Jewelry

Today, Juliana jewelry remains a favorite among collectors, with some pieces fetching hundreds or even thousands of dollars, especially when part of a complete set. The most sought-after designs often feature distinctive stones like “Easter Egg” cabochons or “watermelon” rhinestones, which mimic the look of natural tourmaline. Even simpler pieces, like clear crystal brooches, hold value due to their connection to the D&E legacy.

What makes Juliana jewelry so special is not just its beauty but also its story. From its humble beginnings as a button and buckle manufacturer to its rise as a costume jewelry powerhouse, D&E’s journey is a testament to creativity and craftsmanship. The Juliana line, with its bold designs and vibrant colors, captured the spirit of the 1960s and continues to captivate collectors today.